Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel probably had no idea how many variations, reimaginings, and iterations her cherished 2.55 bag would produce throughout the twenty-first century when she first envisioned it decades ago. However, Chanel is still subtly rewriting its own handbag legend in 2025, as evidenced by the Fall/Winter 2025/26 Pre-Collection.  This collection feels familiar yet edgy, with hints of heritage, reinvention, and a nod to resale culture.

The Vision & Ambassadorship

Photographed in relaxed, cinematic frames at the Palais Royal in Paris, this Pre-Collection is overseen by Jennie (of BLACKPINK fame), the house ambassador, whose presence serves as both an anchor and a source of intrigue in the campaign's imagery. 

It's a conscious decision.  A living example of what Chanel desires this season: relevance with gravitas, Jennie, as a generational icon, unites youthful ambition with haute couture tradition.

2025's Pre-Collections are leaner, more practical, and gloriously wearable than previous ones, which occasionally felt like "lesser siblings" to the runway mainline. Early reviews suggest that Chanel is giving fans "a little something new" in forms that reflect what is to come, rather than merely hinting at the bigger FW show.

The Mood: Coded, Textured, Reimagined

The collection's main elements—quilting, the CC clasp, soft curves, and structured edges—are all revisited, but they are woven together with a dream-soft sensibility. This philosophy is furthered by the ready-to-wear collection, which complements the handbag line: "Playing with volumes and layerings... revisits the emblematic codes of the House with a dreamlike touch." 

Softened silhouettes, subtle alterations to traditional lines, and material juxtapositions that convey a sense of nostalgia while maintaining structure are all examples of this in bags.

A delicate balance must be struck between the collection's trust in Chanel's DNA and its allowance for reinterpretation, whether it be through a subtle scrunching here, a new silhouette there, or a pastel quirk among the classic black-and-gold pieces.

Standouts in Silhouette & Design

Chanel 25 Reinterpretations

The Chanel 25 line's ongoing development is one of the Pre-Collection's most talked-about themes. The 25 was already creating a stir, and now it's venturing into new territory: this season, a mini 25 makes its debut. 

Anticipate sizes that blend the house's quilted codes with contemporary functionality, straddling the boundary between statement and functional.

Chanel Image - SS26 Collection

Quilt, Tweed & Texture

This Pre-Collection features enhanced texture play. There is quilting everywhere: compressed, stretched, puffed, and flattened. Accents of tweed press into bags, occasionally creating patchwork or tonal contrast. One bag might have a soft lambskin body with metal FX, while another might be made of grained calfskin with tweed trim. These hybrid elements—subtle tension, lived-in luxury, and visible layers—indicate that Chanel is gravitating towards artisanal touchpoints.

Chanel Image - SS26 Collection

Revival of the Heart Bag & Flash Moments

You'll be happy to hear that metallic, baby-blue, and soft-pink heart bag interpretations are making a surprise comeback for those who remember the 2022 heart bag craze. 

These pieces serve as flash statements among the more functional designs, almost like collectible novelties. Consider them little bursts of whimsy in the main story.

Classic mini flaps and top-handle flaps are also being subtly altered, with the edges softened, clasps aged differently, and proportions adjusted.  The entire cast seems to be a conversation between the collection's intention to pause, push, and reframe, and the classic Chanel icons.

Chanel Image - SS26 Collection

Color & Palette

This Pre-Collection allows for lightness while maintaining the foundational deeper hues (charcoals, blacks, and rich neutrals). Pale greens, muted blushes, pastel pinks, and soft ivories become accent colours. As seen in the house's own listing, some pieces (like the Chanel 25 medium in light pink) are made of grained calfskin. 

When the pieces are arranged in a certain way, they create a visual ballet that mimics the changes from dusk to dawn between light and shadow.

Warm golds and aged finishes are becoming more popular in metal hardware, which is moving away from cold ruthenium and silver-tone.  As a result, the hardware accentuates the warmth of pastels and tweeds as well as the softness of leather edges.

The Preloved & Resale Resonance

First, some context. The Chanel Classic Flap has long been the benchmark for resale value among modern luxury handbags. In recent years, it arguably competes with (or even outpaces) the Hermès Birkin in terms of desirability in resale circles. The durability of its design, the timeless codes, and Chanel’s managed scarcity all contribute to this sustained value.

That said, not every new drop becomes a resale darling. The Pre-Collection’s design choices — limited quantities, boutique exclusivity, and thoughtful novelty — are precisely the levers that signal “collectible.” A dropped heart bag or a limited pastel 25 variant may fetch premium multipliers on the secondary market.

The Path from Boutique to Archive

A Chanel buyer’s path often runs:

1. Primary purchase (boutique or authorized retailer)
2. Use / gentle wear
3. Resale / consign / preloved exchange
4. Entry into vintage & archival circulation

In that sequence, Pre-Collection pieces often transit quickly to the resale scene — especially among those who monitor drops and have waiting lists. Some buyers even purchase “for resale” — a controversial but real dynamic in luxury circles.

Chanel's 2025/26 Pre-Collection, in summary, is more than just an appetiser; it's a part of the house's ongoing symphony, which is able to roar and whisper with equal eloquence.  It feeds collectors, does favours for fans, and subtly encourages the continuation of its legacy.