When it comes to Hermès bags, much of the conversation tends to revolve around leathers, colors, and sizes. But if you're truly looking to make an informed purchase—especially in the preloved market—hardware matters just as much. From subtle styling cues to resale value and even authenticity, Hermès hardware plays a surprisingly vital role.

At Miloura, where we curate and celebrate the world of authentic, preloved luxury, we believe knowledge is power. Here's everything you need to know about Hermès bag hardware before making your next investment.

Why Hermès Hardware Deserves Attention

Hardware is not an afterthought at Hermès. Regardless of whether you're interested in a Birkin, Kelly, or Constance, the hardware is not just a practical feature; it also represents exclusivity and fine craftsmanship. Precious metals are used to plate it, and it is frequently engraved with small details that set it apart from imitations.

Hardware can also affect a bag's rarity in the resale market, personal style, and resale value.

Common Hermès Hardware Types

Let’s explore the most widely used finishes and what sets them apart:

Gold-Plated Hardware

• Typically plated with 18-karat gold
• Offers a warm, rich glow that pairs beautifully with both neutral and jewel-toned leathers
• Classic and timeless—always in demand
• Often preferred by those who wear yellow gold jewelry

Palladium-Plated Hardware

• A silver-toned finish made from palladium, a rare and durable metal from the platinum family
• More resistant to scratches than gold
• Has a cooler, more modern look, often seen in newer bags
• Pairs effortlessly with cool-toned leathers like Etain, Gris Mouette, or Blue Nuit

Brushed vs. Shiny Finishes

• Brushed hardware offers a matte, understated texture, hiding scratches well
• Shiny (polished) finishes provide a glossy, high-shine effect, but can show wear more easily
• Both styles exist in gold and palladium hardware versions

Rare and Limited Edition Hardware Finishes

Hermès occasionally introduces unique or limited-run hardware styles for VIP clients or special collections.

Ruthenium Hardware

• A gunmetal-like, dark finish
• Though discontinued in recent years, vintage or limited-edition bags are still in high demand.
• Modern and edgy, ideal for a more subtle luxury aesthetic

Permabrass

• Less yellow than regular gold, with a gentle, subdued gold tone
• Inconspicuous and adaptable
• Popular on some travel bags and older styles

Rose Gold Hardware

• A newer and very rare option that exudes femininity and softness
• Typically found on limited edition releases

Guilloché Hardware

• Features engraved, decorative patterns that add texture and shine
• seen in extremely rare or special-order items
• frequently combined with unusual leathers or exotic skins

Diamond-Encrusted Hardware

• Ultra-luxury level
• Set with VS+ quality diamonds
• Only available to top-tier Hermès clients, often through special orders
• Highly collectible and priced accordingly in the resale market.

Authenticity and Hermès Hardware: What to Look For

Hardware is a crucial checkpoint in authenticating a Hermès bag. Here are a few key tips:

Engraving: Perfect, crisp engravings are a hallmark of authentic Hermès hardware, and they are frequently found on the turn-lock, zipper pull, keys and lock. Fonts that are too bold or misaligned are warning signs.

Hermès Paris Stamp: It should be precisely and uniformly spaced on the hardware, such as on the lock or beneath the flap.

Screws: Instead of Phillips (cross-shaped) screws, Hermès uses flathead screws. When it comes to authentication, this is a powerful indicator.

Weight: Real Hermès hardware feels solid and heavy, not lightweight or hollow.

Plating: It should have a consistent, smooth finish. Gold-plated hardware shouldn't peel or flake.

At Miloura, all items undergo a rigorous multi-point authentication process—including detailed hardware inspection—so you can shop with full confidence.

How Hardware Affects Resale Value

In the preloved market, certain hardware finishes can affect a bag’s desirability:

• Gold vs. Palladium: Gold tends to hold classic appeal, especially on vintage bags. Palladium has gained popularity with modern buyers.

• Rare Finishes: Ruthenium, rose gold, and guilloché hardware can significantly increase a bag’s value due to their limited availability.

• Hardware Condition: Scratches or tarnishing may reduce value, but high-end sellers often offer spa services to restore shine.

If you’re buying a preloved Hermès bag as an investment, it’s wise to consider how the hardware pairs with the leather and color. Some combinations—like Etoupe with gold hardware—are perennial favorites and fetch higher resale prices.

Caring for Hermès Hardware

To maintain the longevity and beauty of your bag's hardware:

• Keep your bag in its dust bag and keep it out of the sun and moisture.
• Avoid overpolishing; instead, gently buff out fingerprints with a soft microfiber cloth.
• Consider a professional Hermès spa treatment for severe scratches or dullness.
• To avoid tarnishing, keep clasps and zippers clean.

How to Choose the Right Hardware for You

Ultimately, choosing between gold, palladium, or rare finishes comes down to personal style:

• Gold suits warm-toned outfits and jewelry, and offers a more classic feel
• Palladium works with cooler tones and gives off a sleek, contemporary vibe
• Rare finishes like ruthenium or rose gold offer a bold, fashion-forward edge

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q1: Can I change the hardware on a Hermès bag?

No, Hermès does not offer hardware swaps, and doing so externally may void its authenticity or damage its value. Always buy a bag with the hardware finish you love.

Q2: Does hardware plating wear off over time?

With proper care, it can last for decades. However, frequent use can cause micro-scratches, especially on polished gold. Hermès spa services can restore shine if needed.

Q3: What’s the most popular Hermès hardware?

Palladium and gold are both extremely popular, with gold being more classic and palladium offering a modern look. The best choice depends on leather color and personal style.

Q4: Is Ruthenium hardware still available?

Not in current collections. Ruthenium was discontinued, but vintage and limited edition pieces still circulate in the resale market and are highly coveted.

Q5: How can I authenticate Hermès hardware on a preloved bag?

Look for correct engravings, weight, finish quality, and screw type. Or better yet—buy from a trusted, authenticated source like Miloura.

Final Thoughts

Hardware is more than just a detail when purchasing a used Hermès bag; it's a declaration of style, exclusivity, and wealth. Knowing your options will help you select a piece that reflects your sense of style and intelligence, regardless of your preference for rare guilloché finishes, subtle palladium, or gleaming gold.

At Miloura, every Hermès piece we offer is carefully inspected, authenticated, and loved—hardware and all.